Speake Marin is applying new dial colors to its classics in ways that completely transform them. In the Ripples Date collection, two neutral hues showcase the power of the model’s uniquely textured dial, and the Tourbillon Ultra-Violet is a demonstration of how to breathe new life into the concept of the openworked dial.
The sand-colored hue on the dial of the Ripples Dune Date conjures a very realistic desert landscape thanks to the models’ signature horizontal ripples pattern. Applied to the 12 three-dimensional waves, the new color creates the shadow-and-light contrasts of wind-driven sand dunes. It’s a calm hue, symbolizing the stillness and the spiritual energy of the desert, and against this backdrop, the green small-seconds subdial stands out like an oasis. This one will be limited to 60 pieces.
The Ripples Infinity Date introduces a similarly subdued tone to the dial, but with a more intense outcome. This time, the reflective silver metallic finish combines with the ripples pattern to create a dynamic sense of movement. The clean uniformity of the bright silver ripples dial exudes an aesthetic of purposefulness and purity of design. This presents a challenge, heightened by the unforgiving nature of the surface finish, which demands nothing short of perfection in its execution and showcases Speake Marin’s attention to detail.
The Ripples collection, launched in 2022, is a modern design that is distinctive for its cushion-shaped case combined with a round dial, inspired by the blend of historic and modern architecture of London’s financial district. The hands are heart-shaped like those on Big Ben, another reference to Speake Marin’s British roots. The movement is the in-house caliber SMA03-TD. The “T” stands for “Tradition,” referring to the high-watchmaking finish given to each component, and the “D” stands for the date display.
The Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet is an electrifying new take on the open-worked aesthetic. Aside from the graceful dance of the tourbillon at 1:30, the star of the show on this dial is the gleaming ultraviolet PVD coating on the bridges. The depth created by the layers of components combined with the intersecting lines of the bridges gives it the appearance of an elevated freeway above a cityscape. Speake Marin ups the dazzle factor another notch by adding blue Super-LumiNova to the hands and gray and blue lume to the indexes.
The multiple layers of the dial are emphasized by satin-finishing and rhodium plating. The carved-out microbeaded pockets create a refined grid, with microbeaded profiles bevelled at 45° before being coated in the new ultra-violet hue. The SMA05 manufacture caliber is an automatic flying tourbillon, with a cage decorated with the topping tool motif that has become the symbol of the Geneva-based brand. It has a 72-hour power reserve from a single barrel, and uses an off-center micro-rotor that perfectly integrates into the volume of the movement. There will be four pieces of the Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet in a 38mm titanium case size and only five in a 42mm titanium case. Both come on a black rubber strap.
The new models are a reflection of Speake Marin’s ongoing commitment to combining high watchmaking principles with innovative design – the essence of modern watchmaking. All watches are produced in small quantities, reflecting the decision to produce every piece according to tight quality control standards rather than to mass produce each series. All movements are made in-house at the brand’s Le Cercle Des Horlogers near Neuchâtel, Switzerland.